Compared to its more fashionable cousin in the north, Busan has far less of a cosmopolitan vibe than Seoul which makes for a nice change of pace and a good place to relax. I arrived by KTX train on an overcast drizzling morning which rather dampened my spirits but things brightened up a bit once I reached the busy area of Nampo-dong (남포동).

The streets here are packed with shops, restaurants, and a number of cinemas which play host to Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) each year in October. Throughout the area you can also find plenty of cheap tasty street food – look at the lengths of the queues to tell what’s popular!

Heading away from the city center by bus I visited Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (해동 용궁사) which, while not as extensive as Beomeosa, is nevertheless worth seeing for its rare position along the rocky shoreline (most are in the mountains). It was first built in 1376 during the Goryeo Dynasty and notable features include a three-story pagoda with four lions looking out over the ocean (symbolising joy anger, sadness, and happiness).

Heading back towards the city center my friend recommended we try a local delicacy for dinner. Something I learned on this trip was never again to come face-to-face with your meal before eating it. Especially when what you’re about to eat is wet, slimy, looks like a snake, and is very much alive.

The sight of this poor eel being fished from its tank, skinned alive, and then grilled while squirming all the time was not the best way to work up an appetite. I’m told they don’t feel anything once the head is chopped off but still…

To be fair the few bites I took were pretty tasty (my friend managed to polish the rest off) but I feel an apology is in order. Sorry Mr. Eel – hope you get a better deal your next life

The evening was ended with a trip to Jagalchi Fish Market (자갈치시장) where the old women still looked as bored and mean as before, surrounded by all manner of exotic aquatic life for sale. By this point my twice-around-the-world-in-one-week jet lag was beginning to kick in badly so I stumbled back to the hotel for a night of melatonin induced slumber.

The next day I felt like taking it easy so headed to Haeundae Beach (해운대해수욕장) which takes its name from a ninth century scholar rather than a similar sounding car manufacturer! The beach is notorious for becoming extremely crowded in the peak season but wasn’t to bad on a weekday. Although the weather was warm upon diving in the sea it turned out the water was the complete opposite. How anyone managed to spend more than 30 seconds at a time in the freezing waves I don’t know.

A cold desert after a cold dip was just what the doctor ordered – you may recognise this as patbingsu (shaved ice, red beans, and glutinous rice), the same as I had in Jeonju. Funnily enough the same cafe did a decent english breakfast also.

I took a break from Korean food that evening to have a Vietnamese feast in a particularly nice restaurant on Dalmaji Hill (달맞이고개), overlooking Haeundae Beach. Dalmaji is a rather gentrified upscale neighbourhood with art galleries and pricy restaurants aplenty – if you’re lucky you might spot the odd Korean celebrity or at least passing blacked-out luxury cars.

The view walking down the hill at dusk was particularly memorable and indeed over 200,000 moon watchers come here to pray for their wishes to come true on the year’s first full moon. Not a bad end to a short trip though Busan.

Related posts you might like:

1. Return to Korea
2. Escape from Busan
3. Evening in Busan

The short video was taken to the south of Jeonju Hanok Village that I was visiting for the second time after my inaugural visit the year before. While going somewhere again is never quite as special as the first time there are always new things to discover if you get away from the more popular areas and allow yourself to get lost.

Another enjoyable moment came when I was invited into a hanok (traditional Korean house) which had recently been reconstructed after being relocated from another part of the country due to some turbulent history in Korea’s colonial past (I’m not entirely sure of the exact story).

The proprietor was very generous in going out of his way to show me around – often by merely indicating your interest in something beyond a superficial level you will get a far more valuable experience than simply turning up, taking a few pictures and leaving again.

I was struck by the beauty of both the buildings simplicity and the craftsmanship which had gone into its construction, primarily out of wood for the frame, hanji (Korean paper) for the doors, and iron fixtures holding things together. There was a main house for the owner, an outhouse for guests, and a large hall where students could be lectured.

Since the rooms in a hanok are often multipurpose the thin mattresses for sleeping on are folded away each day. The ones here were made of elaborately pattered silk indicating the high status of the original owner.

During the colonial era (1910 – 1945), there was a systematic attempt by the Japanese government to destroy traditional Korean architecture. One of the ways in which the Korean people resisted the Japanese Nationalist Agenda was to build traditional Korean homes and the houses in Jeonju Hanok Village are a particularly notable example of this.

It’s good to see the building of traditional houses in Korea continuing today although how much this about preserving tradition vs. attracting tourism is debatable.

Related posts you might like:

1. Jeonju Photo Walk – Part 1
2. Hakindang Hanok Guest House (학인당)
3. Jeonju Photo Walk – Part 2

1. Apple is everywhere – it’s staggering how over the past couple of years how the asian market has been transformed from a Galapagos island of feature phones made by Japanese and Korean titans to shear Apple domination. While affluent youngsters used to tout the latest from Samsung and LG all everyone now wants is iEverything. The appeal seems in equal parts about fashion and function with the clean lines and ease of use being a breath of fresh air where good design used to take a backseat. While most other manufacturers are jumping on the Android bandwagon they have a lot of catching up to do.
2. KakaoTalk is killing SMS – around the world SMS is rapidly being replaced by apps which send messages over the net instead of GSM. The main advantage of these apps are that messages are free (minus data costs) no matter where the recipient is in the world and you can do a lot more like send high-resolution photos, videos, share your location or group chat. While WhatsApp may be the darling of the west, in South Korea everyone with a smartphone uses homegrown KakaoTalk. The app is available for free on both iPhone and Android in Korean, Japanese, and English.
3. The Chinese are spending – like with many other countries the people spending the big money these days seem to be the Chinese. I’ve noticed an increasing number of stores actively advertising that they accept UnionPay (China’s equivalent of Visa) to attract Chinese tourists. The value of overseas transactions using the China Unionpay cards jumped 44 percent year on year (2010 – 2011) to 6.37 billion yuan (965 million U.S. dollars) according to the company. More proof that the communist party don’t need to invade other countries to still rule them!
4. Group buying craze – with over 400 competitors, the online group buying market in South Korea is pretty hot right now. The biggest players are Ticket Monster (recently acquired by LivingSocial), Coupang, WeMakePrice, and of course the heavyweight – Groupon. How well any of these will fare in the long-term is unclear but the rapid growth is very impressive. Seoul Space has some good coverage on the subject.
5. Still fantastically fast – while the western world happily sips from modest 3G mobile connections, South Korea is still outpacing anywhere else with the adoption of 4G WiBro (or WiMax) technology providing speeds up to 40.32 mbps on the go. That’s around 10x faster than 3G and better than what most Europeans and Americans can get over a fixed line to their home. The main use of all this bandwidth seems to be video-on-demand services such as streaming TV (a popular pastime for any Seoul commuter!).
6. Shopping on the metro – while I sadly didn’t get to see this in person Tesco, known as Home Plus in Korea, ran a very innovative promotion which allowed shoppers to use their smartphone to scan QR codes on pictures of products stuck on advertisements along metro station platforms (a virtual store if you like). After completing a purchase the groceries are then delivered to the persons home. During the period of the campaign, online sales increased 130% and registered users increased by 76%. The video below shows it in action:

And finally… the invasion of leggy girl and androgynous boy Kpop groups who look and sound almost identical continues unabated except for the occasional interruption by government censors slapping taste & decency bans on any who dare to bare more skin than bad tunes. Cover your ears…

Related posts you might like:

1. South Korea
2. Do You Know South Korea?
3. South Korea Invaded by Kpop Groups

On a related note - Project Obangsaek is creating what looks to be an interesting documentary and website that looks at Korean identity though art, history and culture (directed by Benson Lee) with a focus on preserving what is in danger of being lost due to modernisation:

I’m looking forward to heading back to SK for a week or two in early July

Related posts you might like:

1. South Korea
2. South Korea Invaded by Kpop Groups
3. Korea Train eXpress (KTX)

In the evening several million Korean fans poured out onto the streets to watch the games on outdoor tv screens. I headed to Samseong Station (COEX Mall) to join them and was greeted by a sea of red shirts in a jubilant mood. It was clear that some had been camping out for hours and reserved their spot on the pavement already.

Instead of staying in one place we decided to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. South Korea were playing Argentina and from the outset it was clear they had their work cut out. Unfortunately South Korea were annihilated 4:1 but you can bet the crowd went crazy when they got that single goal. I managed to capture some of it on the video below (sorry for the poor quality).

Early on in the game I walked through nearby Bongeun-sa temple which was almost deserted but acted as an incredible echo chamber for the roar of the crowds nearby – almost a religious experience in itself!

The most amazing part of the whole event came at the end; as people were preparing to leave almost everyone helped pick up litter on the street and arrange it in orderly piles for collection. Can you imagine this happening anywhere else in the world (especially after the home-team being thrashed)? Incredible.

During the match we popped into a local restaurant for some Korean BBQ and experienced another epiphany when I tasted the beef. I’ve tasted quite a lot of cow in my time but this was on another level altogether. The beautifully marbled meat simply melted away in your mouth leaving you craving for more.

My friend suggested we try intestines which I wasn’t too sure about a first but promised to have a try since they were her favourite. Even thought they don’t look hugely appetising I was pleasantly surprised by the taste which is hard to describe but not at all unpleasant. What with this and the behaviour of the football fans it was an interesting night for sure.

You can reach Samcheong-dong by going out Anguk Station exit 5 then walking up the stonewall flanked walkway on the opposite side of the road. After perusing the main street I decided to walk up the hill into the residential area – looking back down it was interesting to see the configuration of the traditional houses with their small square central courtyards.

The streets up here were almost empty so it was nice to explore in the relative peace a quiet. Apparently during the Joseon Dynasty the area was famous as the dwelling site of the royal family and aristocrats. By the look of the houses you’d probably still have to be very wealthy to afford to live here.

I liked this metal door knocker motif which appears to depict one of Seoul’s ancient gateways. I wish I could have seen what was behind it…

Being high up on the hill there was an interesting contrast between old and new. In the distance you can see Namsan mountain and the N Seoul Tower.

The chaotic maze of upturned roof tiles exude a certain calm over the domestic lives being played out below. I bet this place has some interesting history considering it managed to survive the Korean war.

The next morning I went out with a friend to Garosu-gil (가로수길) where we had a sumptuous brunch at a cosy French restaurant (allegedly the chef there was trained by Gordon Ramsay). The street is renowned for its faux-European cuisine and you’re more than spoilt for choice.

If you’re a young woman who enjoys shopping and hanging out in fashionable surroundings then this is the place to come. If you’re a man you’ve probably been brought here against your will but will quietly put up with it. If you’re an oxymoronic stereotype then you’re probably confused about the whole situation.

Garosu-gil, literally meaning “tree lined street”, can be reached from exit 8 of Sinsa Station after which you walk until you reach a corner with the area’s tallest building then turn left just before it.

Related posts you might like:

1. Seoul Streets: Neon Fantasy
2. Seoul Streets: Happy Feet
3. W Seoul WOW

After a comfortable 2.5 hour bus journey from Seoul I arrived late-morning at the nondescript Express Bus Terminal in Sokcho and immediately caught a local bus (No. 7 or 7-1) to the entrance of the National Park, 20 minutes away. The park has a variety of routes which are well-marked and a visitors center with plenty of information.

Along the hiking path I choose there were a number of temples perched on the valley sides with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. They were reminiscent of Beomeosa Temple in Busan. From bustling urban megalopolis to zen-like tranquility, when coming from a city like Seoul, the contrast couldn’t be much bigger.

The route I choose took my up to the impressive looking Ulsanbawi (울산바위) rock formation. From here there are over 800 steps which lead you up to the summit, partially up a rather dangerous looking metal ladder.

It had taken me nearly three hours to reach this point but the effort was well worth it. The unblemished view of the lush green mountains spread out below was awe-inspiring. It would be great to be a bird around here.

A lone tree stubbornly clings to the side of the rock face. I’m sure there’s a metaphor for life in here somewhere…

It was blowing a gale while I was taking these pictures and even though I had the handrail for support it felt pretty precarious so I decided to head back down. A fall from this height would have been fatal and seeing as nobody else was around it seemed wise not to push my luck.

After 5+ hours of hard scrambling nourishment was sorely needed. Heading back into the city I had Makguksu (막국수) ice cold noodles for dinner. The buckwheat noodles are topped off with seaweed, white Baek kimchi, spicy red Mu kimchi and half and egg for delicious combination. The photo above shows you what it looks like before the ice is added.

Before heading back to Seoul the next day I had a wander along the beach which on a weekday was completely empty except for a few old ladies who were diving for seafood. For outdoor enthusiasts Sokcho is well worth a visit.

Related posts you might like:

1. Do You Know South Korea?
2. Dragon’s Back Trail
3. Finding Mr/s Right in China

Gangnam is always great to wander around in the evening – while the architecture isn’t anything special, the light spilling out of the shop front signs creates a mesmerizing glow and is popular with young people enjoying the many restaurants and shops along the road. Consumerism at it’s best

Julio Mexican Diner & Cafe is a short walk from Exit 7 of Gangnam Station – go straight along the main road then take a right up the hill at the Jump Milano building just before the CGV cinema (map).

The interior has bare polished concrete walls with simple furnishings and warm lighting. It was busy when we arrived but waiting five minutes on a warm evening was no problem.

Nachos with cheese, sour cream and tomato – a filling starter and almost a meal in itself.

Chicken Tacos with extra hot sauce – mouth-wateringly good. You could order them in pairs or triplets with pork, chicken or shrimp fillings and hard or soft tortilla wraps.

Sliders or mini cheese burgers made from Austrian beef – not very mexican I guess but nevertheless delicious. They have been rated as one of the best burgers in Seoul and a tasty little snack at that.

Chicken burritos with sour cream – a little ont he small side but fresh and beautifully presented.

All the food was seriously good and I have to admit that the photos here are not all from the same day – I enjoyed it so much that I went again later in the week! I only wish there was a place like this in my neck of the woods.

Before going back to the hotel I stopped off at a very stylish looking Paris Baguette bakery in the area. Having already over-indulged it was a good thing they were almost out of stock!

Related posts you might like:

1. Apple Farm Cafe in Wonju
2. Jackie’s Kitchen

Something I’ve consistently noticed when travelling in South Korea is that there are rarely seem to be any large crowds, even at popular tourist spots. Perhaps the Korean tourist organisation just isn’t very good at advertising itself or maybe it’s just my good luck but it definitely seems to be a trend (Interestingly the KTO recently changed their slogan from “Korea Sparkling” to “Korea, Be Inspired” after much criticism – better or worse?).

Flying umbrellas (minus Mary Poppins) – I’m not sure what this was all about but it may have had something to do with the Jeonju International Film Festival held every year nearby.

For lunch we discovered a small restaurant which specialized in vegetable curry, providing only two choices: mild or hot. You can find it opposite the east gate of Gyeonggijeon Shrine and note that it’s only open 11.30am to 3pm. The waitress / chef is also pretty cute

A generous serving of curry is accompanied by rice and bread – simple but delicious and perfect for a light lunch. I had the mild option and my friend had the hot – both were as advertised!

After lunch we took a look around a few shops selling products made from special paper called Hanji (한지). Hanji is traditional Korean paper made from the bark of mulberry trees called chomok. It is a neutral paper since it doesn’t rely on any acidic chemicals or artificial bleaching methods making it much more long-lasting.

The paper was traditionally used to cover windows and doors to keep rooms warm and protect them from the wind. Today it’s used in all manor of handicraft and even in clothing, although I’m not sure how comfortable a pair of hanji pants would be! Given the amount of manual labour required to produce the intricate designs most of what you can buy is pretty expensive.

While walking toward the south-east of the village I was impressed by this gentleman’s ability to smoke and cycle at the same time. There is a certain irony in the duality of this combination.

After a wander through a former imperial school for the emperors kids our final stop before heading back to Seoul was at a newly opened dessert shop where we sampled a number tasty snacks…

Patbingsu (팥빙수) – made up of sweetened red azuki beans, glutinous rice (tteok), and shaved ice.

Sikhye (식혜) - a traditional drink made from barley malt powder, grains of cooked rice, sugar and pine nuts.

Tteok (떡) – a cake made from glutinous rice.

And so ended an unforgettable trip to what has to be one of my favorite places I have visited in Korea. If you like culture, tradition and good food then Jeonju is definitely worth a visit.

Related posts you might like:

1. Jeonju Photo Walk – Part 2
2. Jeonju Photo Walk – Part 1
3. Macau Photo Walk – Part 4

The dish consists of a whole young chicken which is stuffed with glutinous rice and then boiled in a broth of Korean ginseng, garlic, ginger, and dried seeded jujube fruits. Each restaurant has its own variation on the recipe which is surprisingly simple to prepare (once you have the right ingredients).

As usual it’s served with a variety of small side dishes – the small pancakes at the bottom of the photo are called buchimgae which is made from kimchi mixed into a wheat flour-based batter, and then pan-fried. Very tasty!

We had it for lunch and the video above shows how Samgyetang is served and cut open in the stone pot to reveal all the succulent ingredients inside.

The taste of ginseng might be a little strange to those not used to it but the combination is delicious and at only 12,000 won (~£6) quite reasonably priced. It’s widely believed in Korea that the soup can cure and prevent physical ailments as well as provide relief from bad hangovers!

Koreans use an inordinate number of chillies in their cooking and on our way back that day we came across these ajuma (older women) de-seeding an enormous pile of chillies. If you imagine the smell of cutting one or two chillies in your own kitchen then time it by a thousand you can imagine what it was like. You wouldn’t want to rub your eyes (or any other body part) after a days work here!

Related posts you might like:

1. New Terror Threat
2. Jeonju Photo Walk – Part 3